If urban planners tried to design a hub joining six major commercial strips with points of departure to suburbs south and west, I don’t think thy could match the success of Webster Square. Others see it as a tangled mess best appreciated in their rear-view mirrors. Either way, a guest and I made it for a visit to the Webster House Restaurant.

Upon arrival, we were led to a booth in a bright dinning room with a hughe mural and china closet full of sparkling colorful glassware. Although a fortnight past the afterglow of Valentine’s Day decorations was being swept by a tide of St.Paddy’s green and impish leprechauns.
In exploring the menu, I found the Webster House has its feet planted squarely in different worlds. The first is American Cuisine, with entrees of chicken, beef and particular focus on fresh seafood. But I was intrigued with the “Greek Classic” entrees, a pleasant surprise.

We decided to start with pikilia, an appetizer sampler of tsadziki (a refreshing dip of cucumber and yogurt), hummus and pita, stuffed grape leaves and chunks of feta cheese. Those were the cold items; it also contained savory meatballs and wedges of spanakopita-spinach and feta filling between layers of buttery crisp fillo dough. Years ago, a Greek coworker would occasionally leave tinfoil packages of her home made spanakopita on my desk; the Webster House’s was the best I’ve had since retired.
From there, my guest momentarily regressed to his homeland with a cup of New England clam chowder Creamy rich and thick with plenty of clams and potato chunks, it earned his enthusiastic approval. I chose Greek salad – a standard affair of lettuce, cucumber slices, crumbled feta cheese and fresh vinaigrette dressing.
Each Mediterranean country has its version of fish soup; the French call it bouillabaisse. I chose the Webster House’s Greek version, fisherman’s stew, for my entrée. Fresh haddock, scallops, salmon and shrimp arranged in steaming, white broth with chunks of potato and tomato bits. Wreathing the large bowl were wedges of toasted bread and large steamed mussels. Nothing fancy here, just lots of good seafood and a broth to banish any seafarer’s chill.
Wine selection was made simple with printed suggestions by venerable oenophile Julian Schultz, who consulted on the menu. Greece, perhaps the oldest producer in the world. Is undergoing a winemaking renaissance. I took his advice with a glass of SkourasAintGeorge ’99 (Nemea). It was dep read and tasted of ripe plum and oak.
Baked lamb shank , my guest’s entrée, was slow cooked and served over pilaf. A warning to those fragile tastes and appetites: this is a dish of bold flavor underscored by a rich reduction sauce. Plenty of tender meat was removed from the bones, but he was disappointed with the Greek-style beans –they seemed canned.
We finished with creamy rice pudding and a large wedge of apricot pie-homemade, of course. The list of pies seemes endless.

The Webster House Restaurant has many pleasant suprises. It also mainatains the quality, value and friendly service that have made them an institution in the “skway-yah” for generations.

Sample menu